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Beef review – Ali Wong’s dark, existential thriller is deliciously subversive

Entertaining chaos and extremely funny dialogue result from this Netflix show about two rage-fuelled drivers having a life-affirming feud. It’s a rare delicacy

The beef in question is not a fancy wagyu steak. Although that’s the sort of thing that successful Calabasas lifestyle entrepreneur Amy (Ali Wong) might order on a desultory date-night with her model-handsome husband (Joseph Lee). Nor is it the thin-sliced, Korean barbecue that struggling building contractor Danny (Steven Yeun) grills outside his down-at-heel LA apartment block. This beef is the kind that exists between Amy and Danny, after a road-rage altercation in a car park escalates into a prolonged, strangely life-affirming feud – and Amy’s white whale of an SUV becomes an object of Moby ****-like obsession.

Under ordinary circumstances the likes of Danny and Amy would have no reason to interact. Yes, they’re both east Asian thirtysomethings living in Los Angeles, but Amy’s world is one of swanky gallery launches, a self-designed show-home and pushing through multimillion-dollar deals. Danny’s world is Burger King chicken sandwiches, small-time scams and Korean church band. Someone like Amy probably wouldn’t even hire someone like Danny to clear her drains. Not with those Yelp reviews.

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